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Discussion

Match each profile type with its usual conditions.
List I
A. Storm or bar profile
B. Swell or berm profile
C. Reflective beach
D. Dissipative beach
List II
1. coarse sediment and a steep face
2. steep short period waves in winter
3. fine sediment and a wide flat surf zone
4. long period waves in calmer seasons

  • A.A-2, B-4, C-3, D-1
  • B.A-3, B-1, C-4, D-2
  • C.A-2, B-4, C-1, D-3
  • D.A-4, B-2, C-1, D-3

Answer: C

The first pair describes change over a season and the second a persistent character of the site. Sediment size and wave climate together decide which state a beach occupies. Wave climate and grain size act together on the profile.

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