Discussion
Match each wave transformation process with its cause.
List I
A. Shoaling
B. Refraction
C. Diffraction
D. Reflection
List II
1. energy spreading laterally past an obstruction
2. decreasing depth altering wave height and speed
3. wave energy returned from a steep boundary
4. differing celerity along a crest in varying depth
Answer: C
Correct answer: A-2, B-4, C-1, D-3
Four transformations with four distinct causes. Shoaling is the change in height and speed as the depth decreases beneath the wave. Refraction is the bending that follows when different parts of one crest travel at different speeds in different depths. Diffraction is energy spreading laterally past an obstruction. Reflection is energy returned from a steep boundary such as a wall or a cliff.
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