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The morphodynamic feedback loop describes

  • A.waves acting on a fixed and unchanging sea bed
  • B.sediment moving without any influence on the flow
  • C.a morphology determined solely by the geology underlying the coast
  • D.hydrodynamics shaping morphology which then alters the hydrodynamics

Answer: D

Correct answer: hydrodynamics shaping morphology which then alters the hydrodynamics

The loop closes: waves and currents move sediment and so reshape the bed, and the reshaped bed then refracts, shoals and breaks the waves differently. Neither can be treated as fixed while the other is computed, which is what makes coastal prediction difficult - and what allows self-organised features such as beach cusps and rhythmic bars to emerge without any external pattern to impose them.

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