Discussion
A wave progresses up an estuary of decreasing water depth. If friction is neglected, then
Answer: B
The wave amplitude increases and wave length decreases.
The tidal wave in an estuary is a long (shallow water) wave, travelling at c = √(gh). As the depth h decreases the wave slows down. Its period is fixed by the forcing, so its wavelength, cT, shortens.
Without friction the energy flux is conserved. As the wave slows, the energy bunches up and the amplitude grows; in a channel of constant width it varies as h-1/4 (Green's law). The other options get one or both trends backwards.
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