Discussion
Match each wave parameter with its definition.
List I
A. Wave height
B. Wave period
C. Wavelength
D. Wave steepness
List II
1. horizontal distance between successive crests
2. vertical distance from trough to crest
3. the ratio of wave height to wavelength
4. time for successive crests to pass a point
Answer: A
These four describe a regular wave completely once the water depth is also known. Real sea states require statistical descriptions instead, since no single height and period suffices. A real sea contains waves of many heights and periods at once.
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