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A wave in shallow water travels at a celerity equal to

  • A.the square root of gravity multiplied by the water depth there
  • B.gravity multiplied by the wave period divided by two pi exactly
  • C.the square root of gravity multiplied by the wavelength present
  • D.the wave height divided by the period of the wave train present

Answer: A

The result is independent of period, so all shallow water waves travel at the same speed. The sea state therefore stops dispersing once it reaches shallow water. Depth alone fixes the speed once the wave is long relative to it.

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