Discussion
Airy or linear wave theory assumes among other things that
Answer: A
Correct answer: the wave height is small compared with both depth and wavelength
Linear theory keeps only first-order terms, which requires the wave to be of small amplitude. It also assumes an inviscid, incompressible, irrotational flow over a horizontal bed. The theory is remarkably serviceable well outside its formal limits, but it cannot represent the sharp crests and flat troughs of a real steep wave, nor the mass transport that goes with them.
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