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Linear Wave Theory Questions and Answers

Answer: C

The speeds are approximately 10, 31 and 100 m s-1.

A tsunami's wavelength, often hundreds of kilometres, is far greater than the ocean depth, so it travels as a shallow-water wave whose speed depends only on depth:

\[ \begin{aligned} c &= \sqrt{gh} \\ \sqrt{9.81 \times 10} &\approx 9.9\ \text{m/s} \\ \sqrt{9.81 \times 100} &\approx 31.3\ \text{m/s} \\ \sqrt{9.81 \times 1000} &\approx 99\ \text{m/s} \end{aligned} \]

Speed rises with depth, so the options with speeds falling as depth increases, or out of order, are wrong; 50, 75 and 100 m s-1 does not follow the square-root law. This depth dependence is why a tsunami slows and steepens as it reaches shallow coastal water.

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2.

The formula to calculate the speed of wave or celerity (C) is :

(L = wavelength and T = wave period, H = wave height)

Exam Year(s)

MH SET - 2019, SET Exam - 2019,

Answer: A

Wave speed or celerity is C = L/T.

A wave advances one wavelength L in one wave period T, so its speed is the distance covered divided by the time taken. For example, a wave 100 m long with a period of 8 s travels at 12.5 m/s. In deep water the period alone fixes the speed, \(C \approx 1.56\,T\) m/s, because the wavelength depends on the period.

T/L has units of time per distance, and L×T has units of distance times time, so neither can be a speed. Wave height H does not set the speed of a wave in this relation.

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